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How high is this tree?

Finding a good specification to describe a tree can be bewildering so whether you need a single specimen tree, instant impact trees, semi mature trees, mature trees or simply just large trees, here is our attempt to classify them!

We so often get phone calls requiring specimen trees and our take on this is to quote a tree that is structurally formed with a clear stem of 1.8 metres and large enough to offer instant gratification. In girth terms, this is 14-16cm tree and upwards.

Large trees are referred to in direct comparison with garden centre stock that may only be 2-3 metres in height and any of our trees above 10-12cm girth may fit the requirement here. Mature, or semi mature trees are easier to define as they are classified as any tree beyond 18-20cm girth.

British Standards classify tree sizes as follows:



In order to give an idea of the heights of the trees that we supply, we have produced a guide to indicate the height of the tree in relation to it's girth is as follows:

Planting a Tree

Although our container trees can be planted successfully all year round, we strongly recommend that our trees are only planted when they are dormant between the months of October and March. Trees planted between April and September require far more watering.

Planting Guide

The planting guide has specifically been devised to ensure that, if followed, all our trees will last a lifetime. Our trees are generally measured by girth size in centimetres. This measurement is taken one metre from ground level and is the circumference around the trunk at this point.

1. Water regularly and slowly during the first two growing seasons after planting. If the water doesn’t drain away within ten minutes you are in danger of over watering.


2. All grass and weed competition around the base of the tree should be eliminated (an area of at least one metre around the base of each tree is recommended). Tree trunks will take up herbicides so take care not to spray stems.


3. The area kept free from weed and grass competition can be mulched annually to a depth of five centimetres to prevent subsequent weed growth.


4. The tree can be staked either side of the container root system to avoid excess movement during establishment, and to prevent the stakes damaging the root system when they are driven into the ground.


5. All ties should be adjusted as necessary to allow the tree to grow freely, without constriction.


6. All damage from strimmers and other mowing equipment is to be avoided.


7. Trees hate to be planted deep. Once the pot has been removed for planting, the top of the compost should be at finished ground level after installation.

Irrigation

Following successful installation of your tree(s), it is important to ensure they are irrigated effectively and adequately. Directly after planting, you should watering the tree in by applying a couple of watering cans full of water, applied slowly through a rose attachment. From this point onwards, the following irrigation regime should be performed:

• For trees planted between October and March, irrigation should commence in April and continue until the end of September. It is recommended that 2 large watering cans full of water are applied weekly to the tree(s), using a rose attachment on the watering can, to distribute water slowly and evenly. The following spring (one year from planting) you will only need to recommence your irrigation regime if the weather is exceptionally dry, if it is not, you can assume that your tree is established enough to be self-sufficient.


• For trees planted between April and September, irrigation should commence immediately and continue until the end of September. It is recommended that 3 large watering cans full of water are applied weekly to the tree(s), using a rose on the watering can. The following spring it will be necessary to recommence the irrigation regime, using only 2 watering cans weekly, continuing with irrigation until the end of September. Following these two growing seasons you can assume that your tree is established enough to be self-sufficient.

Garden sprinklers applied regularly, for short periods of time, are also a good method of irrigation as they are capable of providing water slowly and give an even distribution. BEWARE! If water does not drain away within ten minutes after irrigating you are in danger of drowning the tree(s) by suffocating the roots.

Planting pit size

The size of the planting pit is dependent upon the size of the container of the tree that you have purchased. We recommends that the planting pit is 25% wider than the width of the container to allow the roots to spread.

Girth Size Approximate Height 8-10cm girth 7-9ft 10-12cm girth 9-11ft 12-14cm girth 11-13ft 14-16cm girth 13-15ft

Pot Height Width Approximate Weight 20L 30cm 30cm 25kg 45L 35cm 40cm 50kg 65L 40cm 45cm 75kg 85L 45cm 50cm 90kg

Bare Root, Pot and Root Ball

Bare root is sold by age and height

(1+1)	1 year old seedling lined out for 1 year - in most cases a 2 year old plant 40-60cms or 60-80cms height is the best choice and is the staple norm.
(1+0 LD)	1 year old seedling "Low Density" grown at wide spacing and undercut during the growing season - a cheaper specification suitable when planting where weed competition will be less intense, soil shallow or on exposed windy sites.
(1u1)	1 year old seedling undercut and grown in situ for 1 further year - a 2 year old plant - gives a slimmer, straighter plant.
(1+0)	1 year old seedling
(0/1)	1 year hardwood cutting
(1+2)	1 year old seedling lined out for 2 years - a 3 year old plant - a stocky bushier plant.

Pot
The advantage of using plants grown in pots is that 100% of the roots are in the containers and that the plants is well established in the container, ready for planting out. The main disadvantage of container-grown plants is the possibility of deformed roots. "Root bound" plants have roots circling inside the container. The entangled roots are a physical barrier to future root growth and development. If this condition is not corrected at planting time, the plant may experience slow growth and establishment because of the girdled roots. Some form of root mass disturbance is recommended before planting.


Root ball
Root balled plants have an advantage that as they come with soil in the root ball, their original site can be replicated. Root balled plants can only be moved when they are dormant (November to March). When planting ensure that the plants are in a slightly raised manner so that the roots will not drown or suffocate. The planting holes should be dug twice as wide than the root ball and the same depth as the root ball.